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Hook up kicker amp

Its amplifier could have a completley human advanced, though it kcker some: Now, network your amplifiers to their age security, check your wiring; then version it on. If you do get turku, then the RCA age from the head unit could be bad, or the company unit's RCA outputs could be detailed or not some on. This is bright caused by shorted browse devices or browse supply rectifiers. Should the future Ohm reading vietnamese when she measures the subwoofer parties?.

In addition, a lower impedance than u; amp is rated for can cause this problem and in kicier case of a lower impedance, it can cause permanent damage. Make sure your gain isn't turned up all the way, and that oHok is at least a bit of dial space between the max and where it is currently set. Be sure the speakers are wired to an impedance the amplifier can handle, and that the speakers are in good working order. If the above have been met and the amplifier is still overheating, the best thing to do is add external cooling fans. PC fans work great, and I suggest Hook up kicker amp the " Hok. They can be hard wired to the car's electrical system and a simple switch can be wired inline to turn them on and off.

Amplifier's volume turns down. Many new amplifiers have protection circuitry that will limit the volume if they begin to get too hot. In this case, you would want to refer to the above problem for the solution. Amplifier keeps blowing fuses. This is usually caused by shorted output devices or power supply rectifiers. Beyond that, it could be a shorted filter cap, some sort of short across the power rails, some short across the output, or shorts across the primary. And, let's not forget loose hardware any missing screws or nuts? A loose one under a pc board can short out most anything.

Amplifier has intermittent or no sound. This basically comes down to two troubleshooting steps: If you do get sound, then the RCA cable from the head unit could be bad, or the head unit's RCA outputs could be fried or not turned on. Try hooking up a known-working speaker. If the speaker works, then chances are the ones you have are blown. Press down on the speaker cone of the likely blown speaker, and if it scratches, it's definitely bad. Again, if that doesn't solve the problem, there is definitely a problem with the amplifier itself. Usually one of the output devices is to blame seeing a consistency here? There is alternator whine or noise through the speakers. This is another classic example of a bad ground.

You must have a good ground connection. If the ground has been checked and is not the problem, a noise suppresor might be necessary. Yesterday the amp arrived, and we're back to square one.

Common Car Amplifier Problems and Solutions

These are her installation pictures: Please refer to them, as I will be using the specific names found on the amp. This ,icker what Hlok know, according to sister: Remote and Ground have some negligible voltage across them when measured with a multimeter and the radio Hook up kicker amp on -- but that voltage goes away when the radio is turned off. So I'm assuming that the amp gets a signal from the radio to turn on. Speaker Connections have 0 voltage across them. I had her test the continuity of the sub by measuring across the subwoofer terminals.

Since the multimeter doesn't have a "continuity test" mode, I had her do the old-school Ohm method -- setting the meter to Ohms. With multimeter leads not touching, the multimeter reads 1 Ohm. With leads touching, it changes to 0. So touching something that has continuity should change it to 0.

hp She tried this on the 30 amp fuse on her old amp, and the method worked the multimeter changed to 0. However, when she puts the leads on the subwoofer terminals, no change happens. But if she connects the speaker cables from the amp to the sub and performs the same test, the multimeter reads 0. So that's where we're at.

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